Alsace and the Vosges

Day 1

Pickups are from Strasbourg TGV station, Strasbourg airport or Baden-Baden airport. At our hotel in the heart of Strasbourg’s historical center we make sure everyone is happy with their bikes for the week; the city-centre has been made almost car-free so we will have a whistle-stop tour to run through brakes and gears etc. There is plenty of time to see the magnificent Cathedral and the old town before dinner in one of the city’s finest restaurants.

Day 2

We leave Strasbourg avoiding traffic by using the towpaths of the Rhône-Rhine canal. Once clear of the outskirts of the city we head west along the valley of the River Bruche, before reaching Mutzig which is a lovely spot for lunch with its bridges and fountains. The route then takes us into the wooded foothills of the Vosges, passing the ruined châteaux of Guirbaden, Lutzelbourg and Rasthamhausen perched on the hills above us.

We descend for coffee in the beautiful village of Ottrott noted for its Pinot Noir wines (maybe stopping at a producteur for a sample). From Ottrott it is a short descent to Obernai, where our hotel is a few short steps away from the picturesque market square and the 16th century grain market. A gastronomic dinner awaits at the hotel.

Day 3

For the energetic, the day starts with a climb to convent of Mont Sainte-Odile – those wanting to conserve their energy can ride up in the minibus and rejoin their bikes at the top! The convent is a site of pilgrimage to the saint who legend has it was born blind, but miraculously was able to see after being baptised. Work on the convent was started in the 12th C, but the visit is as notable for the stunning panoramas as for the convent itself.

Dropping through the woods we come to the town of Barr for coffee, and perhaps tasting a Gewurztraminer for which the town is a major centre. The route then follows the Route du Vin as it winds in and out of the forests of the Vosges foothills. There is a climb out of the Lieprevette valley to the Château du Haut-Koenigsburg (a big climb, there is an optional minibus transfer to the top!) From the gardens of the Chateau the stunning panorama takes in the Black Forest across the Rhine to the east and all around, ruined fortresses on the summits of the Vosges mountains.

A glorious descent brings us down to our hotel for this evening in the charming village of Ribeauvillé nestling amongst he vines. The village is a fabulous place for a stroll before dinner, with timber framed houses, cobbled squares and 13th century church.

Day 4

After the hills of yesterday, today is a chance to relax on a flat day across the Alsace plain. Cycling through villages interspersed with forests and fields of sunflowers, we come to the banks of the River Rhine. Cycling along the banks, we arrive at Neuf-Brisach. This 17th Century fortification was built by Louis XIV’s military architect Vauban, and the 8-pointed star structure is still intact. We’ll stop to walk along the walls, before lunch in the village within the fortifications.

After lunch, there is more easy cycling before we arrive at our stopping place for the next two nights, the wonderfully Alsatian town of Colmar. Not to be missed in Colmar are is the Unterlinden museum with some wonderful Rhinish art and the magnificent Retable d’Issenheim –a 24 panel alterpiece painted by Matthias Grünewald at the beginning of the 16th Century.

Day 5

No packing today as we are staying in Colmar; today there are options for a longer or shorter ride. The longer ride leaves through the wine-making village of Eguisheim with its ramparts and cobblestone streets then climbing the route des Cinq Châteaux, which passes 5 different châteaux, including the 13th C Hohlandsbourg which we can visit. The shorter ride joins at the fortified gateway to the village of Turckheim.

The route then follows through charming villages at the edge of the Vosges foothills to perhaps the most picturesque of them all, Riquewihr. Looking just as it did in the 16th Century, set amongst vineyards, it is the home of the Dopff winemaking family – noted for sparkling Cremant – a degustation would be suitable reward for the day’s efforts! Keep an eye out too for the stork-wheels – cartwheels mounted horizontally on the roofs of houses to encourage storks to build nests (and thereby to bring good luck and fertility to the village)

A gentle ride brings us back to Colmar and a chance to visit the old town and the ‘little Venice’ district where half-timbered houses line the canals.

Day 6

Our last day in the saddle brings a challenge for those who are up for it – a climb up to 1,343 metres to the Grand Ballon. Don’t worry if the climb doesn’t appeal – the minibus can take the sting out of it! . The route takes us first along the valley of the River Fecht to Munster, famous for its cow’s milk cheese. It’s also a great spot to stop for coffee!

After the village of Metzeral, the route gets steeper up to the Col du Plaetzerwessel – from here the route flattens and we are rewarded with several kilometres of truly magnificent views as we take the Route des Cretes ridge road. A picnic at the summit of the Grand Ballon is the perfect lunch!

After lunch is literally all downhill as we speed through sublime landscapes down to our last hotel in the village of Thann. Thann is renowned for its richly decorated collegiate church with coloured roof tiles and intricate fretwork gothic spire. It also has the most reputed of the Alsace vineyards, and we’ll have time to visit a winery before our final gourmet dinner at our hotel.

Day 7

Time to exchange e-mail addresses with your new cycling friends before transferring to Mulhouse TGV or Basel-Freiburg-Mulhouse airport for onward journeys.

“We had a great time. The food was exceptional; the guides were the best, they catered to our every need. A superb holiday.”

Carolyn Montgomery, Maine, USA.

“The Dordogne tour is a complete delight – Alan couldn’t have been a better guide.”

Margaret Miller, Victoria, Australia.

“Excellent value, great cycling routes. Can’t wait to do the next one!”

Carole Engelder, Texas, USA.

“Alan was outstanding in sorting out vegetarian meals, and for his wonderful picnics. An excellent tour, enjoyable in every aspect.”

Lea Stogdale, Manitoba, Canada.

“Dear Ruth,

“Carole and I recently returned from our Dordogne Tour and wanted to let you know that we very much enjoyed the trip – even better than lasts year's tour in Provence, though it too was heavenly. The Dordogne tour was in all respects a PERFECT holiday! Much kudos due to Alan and Chris for their attention to every detail.”

“Looking forward to more cycling holidays with FCH!

Eva Moldovanyi, Texas, USA.